Take Me to Your Barista: Espresso Gains Ground(s) in Carroll County

Written By Linda Morton

It is not official, but there is little doubt that espresso, the strong Italian coffee that spread throughout the U.S. like a caffeine jolt in the 1990s, is now readily available in Carroll County.

Whether that argues a growing worldliness among the area’s residents is beside the point. The fact is that espresso, the name of which is derived from the Italian word for a product that is served immediately to the customer, can be obtained in an increasing number of locations throughout the county.

For instance, you can get a double shot of the stuff (1 1/2 – 2 ounces) at the Three Fine Cups coffee house in Taneytown; Starbucks in Westminster, Eldersburg, Sykesville and Mt. Airy; the Vintage Coffee House in Mt. Airy; the Pour House, Sam’s Bagels, the Starry Night Bakery and Coffee House, and Giulianova Italian Groceria and Deli in Westminster; Snickerdoodles Bakery and Coffee Shop in Hampstead; the Budapest Cafe at McDaniel College in Westminster; Dunkin’ Donuts shops in Hampstead and Taneytown, and pretty soon, McDonald’s everywhere.

Just FYI, here’s some espresso lore: Many people find straight espresso too strong because it makes them jittery. However, there’s actually more caffeine in a regular cup of coffee than in one shot of espresso, according to Lisa Barron, owner of Three Fine Cups. The effects may just be experienced more quickly because the coffee is so concentrated.

Coffee houses first appeared in Middle Eastern countries in the 15th century and moved into Europe in the 17th century. They began to gain popularity in the U.S. in the Ô90s, primarily along the west coast.

Espresso is more than a century old, dating back to 1901 in Milan, when factory owner Luigi Bezzera patented a dome-shaped machine that he called a Tipo Gigante for forcing steam quickly through fine-ground coffee. Purportedly, he invented the machine to shorten his employees’ coffee breaks.

Espresso machines range in price from under $100 for home models to $14,000 and up for commercial macchinas. The price of a double shot of espresso generally ranges from $1.50 to $3.

The specialists who make espresso are called baristas, the Italian term for bartender. In the world of Italian espresso, recipes are quite specific. Boyd’s Coffee of Portland, Oregon offers these and other recipes on its Web site: “Ristretto: a half shot of espresso served with a side of water; Doppio: a double shot of espresso; Macchiato: the espresso is “marked” with a shot of hot milk; Lungo: the shot is prepared “long” — i.e., with more water; Romano: the shot is served with a twist of lemon; Con Panna: an ounce of heavy cream is added to the shot; Correcto: an ounce of liqueur is added, or Aroma: a half ounce of flavored syrup is added.”

A latte is espresso with steamed milk. Flavor can be added, as in chocolate for a mocha latte. A cappuccino is espresso with steamed, frothy milk, which adds air to the drink, making it very light.

Part of the mystique of espresso is the quest to get all of the contributing factors just right, and it takes a lot of practice, according to The Coffee Research Institute. Changing any one of the variables affects the final product.

“Espresso preparation,” says the Institute, “is an art that demands the precision and dedication of science. . . . If it were easy, we would develop a machine that knows how to make a perfect espresso every time,” says the Institute’s web site. “A double espresso is a . . .1.5-2 ounce extract [or shot] that is prepared from 14-17 grams of coffee through which purified water of 88-95¡C has been forced at 9-10 atmospheres of pressure for a brew time of 22-28 seconds. The espresso should drip out of the porta-filter like warm honey [and] have a deep reddish-brown color, and a crema [the foam] that makes up 10-30 percent of the beverage.”

Of course, the coffee is a large part — although not all — of the espresso experience. Much of the culture lies in the atmosphere of the coffee house: a relaxed gathering place for people who appreciate not only a well-brewed cup, but the warmth and serenity of a sanctuary from the hectic pace of 21st century society.
Laura Schultz, who managed The Pour House for five years before becoming its owner in December 2007, says that her establishment is based on the Seattle model.

“Seattle-style shops are usually located in older buildings and try to be warm and inviting, unlike a typical storefront business,” she said. “The appeal is the atmosphere; it stimulates all five of your senses. It’s very comfortable and customers can stay as long as they wish.”

United Methodist Pastor Wade Martin, a regular at Mt. Airy’s Vintage Coffee House, agrees. “I’m there Monday through Friday at about 7 a.m. I drink regular coffee and spend about an hour reading and studying, always in the same chair in what I think of as my spot. This is my quiet time with God before I start my day, a place between home and work.”

“I think coffee shops have become popular because people like the relaxing atmosphere,” said Sondra Humphreys, another Vintage regular. “ It offsets the insane pace of our lives. People like to have a place to steal away to for an hour alone or with a book or a good friend. Sharing a warm cup of coffee and taking time to enjoy it is precious time; it’s very relational. Our days are so hectic now with people communicating by email and cell phones, nonstop but from a distance. People don’t take time to visit any more. The coffee shop is like the corner grocery store of the past, that neighborhood place where people could touch base with familiar faces.”